野村壽司位於仁愛圓環附近的小巷子裡,靜謐地等待著食客的光臨。這間僅有 12 張座席的壽司吧才開張一個月,而撐起整個場面的是野村裕二,一位看似年輕,卻已有15年的料理資歷的壽司師傅。我對台北不算太熟悉,卻知道野村師傅有一大票忠實顧客,自他任職於「野壽司」時期就開始追隨他了。到底是什麼樣的手藝能如此吸引人呢?午餐時間,我們去瞧瞧。

 

Behind the Ren Ai circle and very close to the stylish a poet, Nomura Sushi quietly sits. Opened just a month ago, this 12-seat sushi bar is headed up by Nomura Yuji 野村裕二, a young but experienced sushi chef who has been in the trade for over 15 years. I’m not too familiar with the dining scene in Taipei, but apparently Nomura-san has quite a loyal following from his days at the wildly popular “No Sushi 野壽司”. Well then, let’s take a look at he’s got.

 

 


野村壽司
Nomura

 

 

野村壽司半掩的木門,似乎招著手請路人進去一探究竟。不過你如果真的是路過進去,估計是坐不到位子的-還是事前預約吧。

 

A half-opened wooden gate beckons passerby, but as Nomura Sushi is almost always fully booked, you won’t have much luck as a walk-in guest. Reservations highly recommended.

 


木門
Wooden Gate

 

 

我們被領到一排由原木所打造的平坦簡潔的壽司吧前。溫暖的燈光,小野麗莎輕柔的歌聲,熱茶,熱手巾,一切都令人感到愉悅。

 

Upon entering, we were seated at a plain, spotlessly clean sushi bar built from pristine wood. Warm lighting,Ono Lisa in the air, hot tea, warm towels…instant good feeling.

 

 


壽司吧台

Sushi Bar

 


壽司吧台
Sushi Bar

 

 

野村壽司的晚餐從 2500 台幣起跳。相較之下,訂價 1200 台幣的午間套餐實在是非常划算。

 

While dinner at Nomura costs at least 2500 NTD (and up to 3300+ NTD depending on what you order), lunch is an excellent deal at only 1200 NTD.

 

 


開胃菜:細切蘿蔔佐吻仔魚
Appetizer: grated daikon with dried baby fish

 


清爽的醃蘿蔔
Marinated daikon

 

 

回溯日本江戶時代,沿街販賣壽司的壽司師傅們在沒有冷凍設備的情況下,會先將魚料預先處理 -或燉煮、或醃漬 -以延長魚料的保存時間。野村壽司提供的正是這種江戶前壽司。

 

Nomura-san serves Edomae sushi (江戶前壽司), which, if simply put, is characterized by the use of pre-seasoned fish. Back in the days, sushi were sold on streets by stands when there were no refrigerators, and in order to achieve a longer shelf life, the fish were simmered in broth, immersed in soy sauce, or cured with salt and vinegar. For more details, click here.

 

 


野村裕二
Nomura Yuji

 

 

我們當日的壽司饗宴由一貫金目鯛握壽司揭開序幕。我之前嘗過的金目鯛都是以微炙的方法呈現,而野村師傅則僅僅刷上一抹醬油而已。這種單純的料理手法,很新鮮,很純粹的展現了金目鯛的原始滋味。

 

The royal procession of Edomae sushi commenced with kinmedai 金目鯛 (golden eye seabream). I’ve only had it 炙り(aburi, or partially grilled), and was delighted to find its clean, sweet taste when left unadorned with the exception of a brushstroke of soy sauce.

 

 


金目鯛
Kinmedai

 

 

鰶魚(小肌)的魚肉經過醃製後帶著強烈而開胃的醋味,上面灑上的柚子皮屑則完美平衡了整體風味,讓人印象深刻。

 

Kohada 小肌 (a type of herring) made quite an impression. The fish itself was fairly strong with a piquant smack of vinegar, but was nicely balanced by a sprinkle of yuzu peel. Like.

 

 


小肌
Kohada

 

 

比目魚。

 

Next up, a piece of hirame 比目魚 (fluke/summer flounder).

 

 


比目魚
Hirame

 

 

鮪魚大腹肉,這個永遠令人陶醉的食材,應該不需要多作介紹了吧?值得一提的是野村師傅在魚面上畫上了細細幾刀,使醬油能夠充分融入魚肉中,這種料理手法是我之前未見過的。

 

Otoro 大トロ (fatty tuna), the all-time crowd-pleaser, needs no further introduction. I did find it interesting that Nomura-san made careful incisions on the fish, presumably to let the soy sauce really sink in – something I had not seen before.

 

 


大トロ
Otoro

 

 

接下來是蓋著紫蘇葉,鮮甜又黏滑的白蝦。

 

Then, a sweet and sticky shiroebi 白蝦 (white shrimp) topped with shiso leaf.

 

 


白蝦
Shiroebi

 

 

鐵火卷 (鮪魚卷)。

 

Tekkamaki 鉄火巻き (tuna roll), not my usual favorite.

 

 


鉄火巻き
Tekkamaki

 

 

接著來的是爽脆的青柳貝, 相當令人滿意的口感。

 

Following that, a big and crunchy piece of aoyagi 青柳 (round clam) made a satisfying mouthful.

 

 


青柳
Aoyagi

 

 

赤鯥,除了它口感非常柔軟外,沒有太多印象。

 

I don’t remember much about the akamutsu 赤むつ (deep sea grouper) other than its very soft flesh.

 

 


赤鯥
Akamutsu

 

 

出乎意料之外,最讓我驚艷的居然是這一碗迷你鮭魚卵丼。一般吃到的鮭魚卵大都是經過醃漬,有點過鹹的版本,而野村的新鮮鮭魚卵未經調味,每一口都爆出天然的鮮美滋味。配著溫熱的醋飯,實在讓我覺得一小碗不過癮。

 

What blew me away, surprisingly, was a tiny bowl of warm sushi rice topped with fresh ikura いくら. I’m used to eating the marinated, overly salty kind, and was quite enamored with this glistening heap of fresh salmon roe, each a little pop of flavor burst.

 

 


鮭魚卵
Ikura

 


鮭魚卵
Ikura

 

 

軍艦卷上堆滿慷慨份量的海膽,不用多說了。

 

Uni 海胆 (sea urchin), generously piled up in a 軍艦巻き (gunkanmaki). No need to say more.

 

 


海膽軍艦卷
Uni

 

 

河童卷 (小黃瓜卷) 包著小黃瓜絲、一點紫蘇以及不知道名稱的白魚,很清爽。

 

Kappamaki カッパ巻き (cucumber roll) with thin slices of cucumber, a bit of shiso and unknown white fish.

 

 


河童卷
Kappamaki

 

 

野村師傅招待的綜合魚料伴青蔥薑末軍艦卷。

 

An extra mixed fish gunkanmaki topped with fresh scallions and sliced ginger, courtesy of Nomura-san.

 

 


軍艦巻
Mixed fish gunkanmaki

 

 

最後是柔嫩、鬆軟的星鰻。

 

Lastly, a meticulously prepared anago 穴子 (conger eel). Tender, fluffy.

 

 


星鰻
Anago

 

 

這碗味增湯,看似簡單,卻富含蝦子的鮮味。

 

A bowl of miso soup, naturally sweet from thoroughly cooked shrimps.

 


味增湯
Miso soup

 

 

餐後甜點是手工黑糖豆花。

 

The meal ended with a simple housemade bean curd with brown sugar.

 

 


手工黑糖豆花
Bean curd with brown sugar

 

 

野村師傅給人的第一印象或許很安靜,但一聊開,他就會詳細地介紹你所吃的每一道料理。遺憾的是野村師傅不太會說中文或英文,所以只有會說日文的人才能享有這種服務了。

 

A few more words on Nomura-san. He may seem quiet at first, but if you engage him, he will tell you everything he can about what you are eating. The catch – he can’t communicate much in Chinese and English, so this will only work for those who can speak Japanese.

 

 


野村師傅
Nomura-san at work

 

 

餐後,野村師傅向我們展示了他和餐廳老闆們特別日本小豆島帶回來了特選醬油。這種為了找到完美食材而不惜踏遍各地的努力精神,讓我想起了料理東西軍…:)

 

Nomura-san showed us bottles of artisanal soy sauce his team procured from 小豆島 (Shodoshima), just one of the many examples of how he attempts to carefully select everything used in the restaurant. If you have seen episodes of どっちの料理ショー (one of my all time favorite TV shows), it won’t be difficult for you to conjure up images of obsessed men roaming the globe in order to find the single most premium ingredient for a particular dish.

 

 


小豆島醬油
 Soy Sauce

 

 

野村師傅也向我們展示了一些他為晚餐所準備的高級食材,看樣子我得在下次去台北的時候才有機會嚐到了。

 

Nomura-san also showed us some ingredients he will use for dinner. Given that dinner sets are way pricier than lunch sets, I’m guessing he saves the real good stuff till after dark. I will have to find out on another trip to Taipei.

 

 


晚餐食材
What's for dinner?

 

 

雖然我在離開野村壽司時,沒有如我離開上海的 Sushi Oyama 那麼感動,不過想想…Sushi Oyama 一餐是800元人民幣 (3600台幣) 的價位,而我們這次在野村壽司享用的午間套餐僅是 1200 台幣…哪個性價比高呢?很明顯了吧。

 

hough I did not leave Nomura Sushi in the same blissful state as I left Sushi Oyama, I reminded myself that a meal there would’ve costed at least 800 RMB (3600 NTD), whereas our lunch at Nomura was only 1200 NTD. Value for money? Absolutely.

 

 

野村壽司

地址:台北市安和路一段78巷34號

電話:02-2755-6587

營業時間:12:00~2:00pm, 6:00pm~9:00pm (週一休)

價位:[午餐] 1200 NTD/套, [晚餐] 2500~3300+ NTD/套

造訪日期:2011-10-04

 

 

本文轉載自 Sugared & Spiced